Tuning in…
Tuning in…
Desert Island Discs
Presented by Michael Parkinson
One of two brothers who are Britain's best-known restaurateurs and among the world's best chefs, described as gastronomic missionaries.
Eight records
It reminded me of the time where I I spent nearly a year in the Sahara, which is very much in the desert that was during my army, and we were looked after, protected by the Legion. And I love Edith Piaf very much so.
just to remind Michele that he is the only one.
Alan Loveday and the Academy of St Martin in the Fields
when between the age of let's say twenty two to twenty six when I was having a little time off in the afternoon to lay down for half an hour and listening to the four season spring especially and letting my mind go away to my brother as I wanted the time to flow and to go very quickly for me to join him.
And I think it's one of the greatest singers and actors as he was acting as well in that uh play and uh I I will always remember that play. It's one of the greatest plays I've seen.
Non, je ne regrette rienFavourite
I wanted my brother to know that.
which I love. I mean it's the theme of the of the of that lovely film which I've got on record in fact and uh I play that track uh from time to time, especially when I feel low and a bit tired.
The keepsakes
No book or luxury recorded for this episode.
In conversation
Presenter asks
Do you think you'd get on well together [sharing this desert island]?
Oh, I think it'd be back to the old days, really. So, I mean, I look forward to that. … I would uh second that sentence.
Presenter asks
Was there ever any doubt that you were not going to work together?
Absolutely none. No, no. Right out from uh childhood we were going to be together. It's never been put into I always look at Albert as uh my mentor and someone who uh you know was giving me inspiration and I wanted to do what he was doing and I loved him and uh … I wanted to be with him. … wherever he was and uh came to this country, so I came to this country.
Presenter asks
The recording
Timestamps play the recording from that turn
Speaker 2
Hello, I'm Kirsty Young and this is a podcast from the Desert Island Discs archive. For rights reasons we've had to shorten the music.
Speaker 2
The programme was originally broadcast in 1986, and the presenter was Michael Parkinson.
Presenter
Our Desert Island Castaways are brothers who have become Britain's best known restaurateurs. More than that, they're recognized as two of the best chefs in the world. They've been described as gastronomic missionaries whose purpose in life is to teach us how to eat. They are Michel and Alberu.
Presenter
Gentlemen, welcome. I must ask you, you're going to share this desert island together. You're better than most of our guests, we've got it to ourselves. But do you think you'd get on well together? Michel, can I ask you first of all? Oh, I think it'd be back to the old days, really. So, I mean, I look forward to that.
Albert
I would uh second that sentence.
Presenter
What strengths of Michel's would you discover, do you think, on this desert island? Would it bring the best out of him? And if so, what would be the best of him?
Albert
Esuma.
Albert
Which um I love.
Presenter
Yeah.
Albert
Michelle, what about you? He's a good cook, and I think I'm I can swim well, so if I go swimming and pick up few shellfish, I mean, I think he can prepare a good meal.
Presenter
Let me ask you the reverse of that question. What would most get on your nerves about the other brother, Michele or Halbert?
Albert
I can't think of anything, to be honest.
Presenter
I'm I'm going to enjoy it all. Elva?
Albert
No, no, I would agree with that. It I think it would be uh going back to the basic when we were at school together.
Albert
I think it would strengthen the the bone.
Presenter
Have you always been very, very close?
Albert
Oh, extremely. Extremely.
Presenter
Was there ever any doubt that you were not going to work together at the time?
Albert
Absolutely none. No, no. Right out from uh childhood we were going to be together. It's never been put into I always look at Albert as uh my mentor and someone who uh you know was giving me inspiration and I wanted to do what he was doing and I loved him and uh
Speaker 1
Yeah.
Presenter
Yeah.
Speaker 1
It has
Albert
I wanted to be with him.
Albert
wherever he was and uh came to this country, so I came to this country.
Presenter
Right, so you're now together on this desert island. Now we're going to choose the music for it. Now, let's see how disparate your views are on that. Albert, you've got the first choice. What's your your first choice of record?
Albert
If you go away.
Presenter
Bihoo.
Albert
Shelley Bass
Presenter
And why?
Albert
Well, I think it's very appropriate.
Presenter
You're sending your brother away, are you friends? Exactly.
Albert
I think he is.
Speaker 1
Yeah.
Albert
Uh
Speaker 1
Yeah.
Albert
If you go away
Albert
On this summer day.
Albert
Then you might as well take the sun away.
Albert
All the birds that flew
Albert
In the summer sky
Albert
When our love was new
Albert
And our hearts were high.
Albert
When the day was young
Albert
And the night was long.
Albert
And the moon stood still.
Presenter
Gentlemen, let's talk about the the family background. Whereabouts in France did you grow up?
Presenter
How the
Albert
Born in a very small little village near Oan,
Albert
went to school in a town where Michel was born, Charol.
Albert
Right up to the age of um eleven.
Presenter
What about your your parents, uh Michel?
Albert
Otherwise
Presenter
Uh
Albert
Yeah.
Presenter
The shaku team.
Albert
And as brother said, I come from Sharol. Charol is the beef country, the equivalent of the Babyadine in Scotland.
Presenter
Yeah.
Albert
And really that little charcuterie was marvelous, full of wonder. I mean, father was making beautiful sausages, patty, and grandfather used to be a charcuterie as well, and make all those same goodies.
Albert
I mean, there is a marvelous vivic souvenir of our childhoods as uh the food was everything fire. So was it? I mean it was fantastic. When we were sitting around the table it was really for a feast.
Presenter
Just
Albert
Yeah.
Presenter
Every day of the week. Can you remember the two of you when you first started cooking yourselves? How old would you be?
Albert
Well Albert was uh how old were you, Rather? I was fourteen when I started pastry uh work for four years.
Presenter
Yeah.
Albert
While up to the age of eighteen.
Presenter
Why pastry work? Because both of you did your initial training, didn't you? As pastry cooks. Why was that?
Albert
Yeah.
Albert
I been lucky enough to be told by a wise old man to whom I confined that I wanted to be a chef. He was the chef of the Duchess of Windsor in Paris.
Albert
with relation that had gone to see him, to seek advice. Then he said before being a cook you have to learn how to do pastry.
Albert
And he said, Come back and see me.
Albert
when you've done when you full apprenticeship.
Albert
Which I did. What about you, Michelle? Well, the pastry give you the balance, really. I mean, art as well. And you were without excess. I mean, there is some freedom in Patisfree and there is other things which to hold you back. And discipline is very important. And I did exactly the same. My brother started in Patisree at the age of fourteen.
Presenter
What about you, Michelle?
Albert
And then I moved on into cooking at the age of seventeen and joined Braddo who was there through chef at the British Embassy.
Presenter
In Paris
Albert
Peace.
Presenter
Was there never any doubt in in either of your minds at any point in your young life that you want to be anything other than than chefs?
Presenter
Do you not want to be railway drivers' airline pilots?
Presenter
No.
Albert
Well, to me, um
Albert
I would have not mind to be a priest.
Albert
That was my second love and used to serve mass.
Albert
Right up to the age of um fourteen.
Albert
So that was my second string.
Presenter
Do you ever regret that you didn't do that?
Albert
No, no, no regret. I think I would have made a very bad priest. So one has got no regret on it. But uh I would have loved to be a priest. He's greedy, you know, so you're you're not supposed to be greedy and love your food and all that things when you're a priest, you know.
Albert
What about you, Michel? Did you have any doubts at all? No, I love cooking and pastry. But having said that, I mean, I love uh carving, I love woodwork, I love uh carpentries charpentier and painting, painting, I mean, but it would be painting art. I love painting definitely as a painting of of a countryside. I mean, I would love to be a painter as well.
Presenter
So did you have any doubts at all?
Presenter
Right, let's have your second choice of record. Michelle, it's up to you now. What's your choice? I've chosen.
Albert
Yeah.
Albert
Mon Legionnaire from Edith Piaf. It reminded me of the time where I I spent nearly a year in the Sahara, which is very much in the desert that was during my army, and we were looked after, protected by the Legion. And I love Edith Piaf very much so. And I think in her song Mont Legionnaire, she described the Legionnaire beautifully well.
Albert
Il es péments, il es têbeau, il santé fun stable jau Mo les giona.
Albert
You're ready for angels.
Albert
Jimes that survey.
Presenter
'Cause from this background in uh in France that we've talked about, you came over to England more than that. I mean, you conquered the the scene here, the restaurant scene here. Let's find out about what brought you over here. Albert, you you j came over and you joined the Astor family, I believe, didn't you, first of all?
Albert
Yes, I came at eighteen.
Albert
and uh work for I think.
Albert
Going back from memory about four months for Lady Nancy.
Albert
And then she went back to America for quite a while, so I joined her son, Jackie Jacob, Esther.
Presenter
What kind of a lifestyle do they lead these people?
Albert
not unlike the upstairs or downstairs or the Selarai's uh the life of Lady Nancy, that was you know, people who saw that on television, that was it was, you know. There were downstairs, there were upstairs.
Speaker 1
Well
Albert
You were extremely well looked after, in clothing and in food. You had a wage, which really was a wage you were lodged, you were fed.
Albert
So the whatever money you got
Albert
My first wages was five pound was pocket money.
Presenter
Now, how many people would be in the house of the Astors?
Albert
At the time uh calling back again from memory, we were twenty six or twenty seven in the staff.
Presenter
Looking after how many
Albert
Looking after a lady or for Jackie Jacob, uh looking after a couple and two children.
Presenter
What kind of food did you prepare for them? There couldn't be grand meals every day.
Albert
Uh no, no. Weekends uh well very lavishly where they entertain, but uh in the evening uh they would retire and uh hit maybe on a tray while they were reading or looking at television. So you had very, very simple food, posed egg or
Presenter
Uh
Albert
Uh Yeah.
Presenter
And they'd have five people in the kitchen to do this.
Albert
Oh god yes. Uh
Presenter
You've had a long love affair with England. I mean, you've described it as uh thus yourself. When you first arrived at the age of eighteen from France, did you fall in love immediately with the country?
Albert
Didn't take me long. I was very, very surprised when I stepped out from the train in Victoria Station. It was about five thirty, after a long crossing and a rough crossing.
Albert
and seeing all those people with bolah hat and coronation.
Albert
I thought I had gone into another planet.
Albert
Uh being met uh by the chauffeur which had sent the photo, uh was asked to send the photo then um
Albert
He couldn't speak a word of French, neither could I speak a word of English, nor that I speak perfect English now.
Albert
He took me to a station and had a cup of tea and I gave his ticket to get the tea. Certainly it's vivid, still vivid on my mind. And then I jump into the car, which uh was a big Rolls-Rolls, and he took me to uh Hill Street, which is not very far from where we are now. And my life uh started in England. There was no doubt in my mind that it was the country where I was going to come back. Nobody was going to move me out from that country. I fell in love with it and um I uh often said to one who want to hear it, I only travel with a French passport. I'm definitely I feel English and I'm very happy in this country.
Presenter
Why is that, though? What what is it particularly about this country that you like?
Albert
I like the way people behave, the respect which they have uh for democracy, the respect which they have with other people.
Albert
their thought. It is sometimes very nervy because things do move uh more slowly if you are a Democrat because you always ask other people and you see other people's feelings.
Albert
It is something very unique, I think, the English people.
Albert
Maybe do not realize it, because they live with it, they are born with it. But it's such a free country, a country of expression, where people take you for what you are.
Albert
in knowledge and not for what your name or other things. I feel extremely free in this country.
Presenter
Let's have another choice of record album from you. What's your second choice?
Albert
My second choice is only you from the platters, just to remind Michele that he is the only one.
Albert
Got it.
Speaker 1
Yeah.
Albert
Only
Albert
Uh
Speaker 1
Uh
Speaker 1
Can make
Speaker 1
I seem right.
Speaker 2
Uh
Speaker 1
Uh
Speaker 2
And make the darkness bright.
Speaker 2
God live.
Presenter
Michel, let's talk now about your early days. You've heard about Alber's introduction into the the business. What happened to you? I mean, you trained as a as a pastry cook, then what happened? Well, after the
Presenter
But he's free.
Albert
the uh training, the apprenticeship, I um went obviously to the Rochal family. That was my choice. I mean, I was lucky enough to
Albert
be directed into the family and uh I was working there for nearly seven years.
Presenter
And what kind of splendor did they live in?
Albert
Oh God, you know, I mean it's a bit like brother here, private houses uh in this country. I mean they were pretty much the same, I mean uh grand style. I mean I used to work in Paris and I used to work in the country for the weekend, in a house in the country north of Paris. I used to go to the south of France in July and August and work there again, uh near Saint Raphael and I used to go even for the harvest in Bordeaux in the Chateau Lafitte and I used to look after the whole family very often there, ten or twelve or twelve.
Albert
And it was grand dinner or grand luncheon, but not so often. I mean, lot of the time it was for looking after one or two persons.
Albert
And we were something like eight or nine person to look after one lady. It was wonderful. And uh we were serving, I mean
Albert
I've seen Great Akabo many, many times and other people like that from all over the world. And what I've learned in private houses and with the Rochal family is really education manners business like, I mean, a lot of things more than cooking, test of life.
Presenter
I think also too you must have been the two of you surrounded by beautiful things too of course. Yes.
Albert
Yes. Well, we had the best ingredient. Yes. We had the best craftsmen working with us. We had the best guidance. And we had people I mean, obviously, those persons were person who wanted the best. So they were very demanding. And being the morning means that we had to obviously give the best and the best was hard work and dedication.
Albert
And I think that we've been able to achieve that. I mean uh
Albert
At the end of the day, I mean, I think my time I spent with Rochala are the best time I spend as a as a training in my uh skilled life.
Presenter
No, there was brother Alber over in London. I mean, did you in intend at that time to join him?
Albert
When I was on holiday, uh, spending a week or two, I came and visited him when he was working, uh especially when he used to work for the Major Casalet, the Castellet family, and uh loved it. We used to go fishing, we used to go outing in London for a meal, and that's where really we realized that there was a great potential in London. Well, we knew before, but that was a confirmation, and we knew even more that we wanted to start a business in London there and then. I was most probably twenty three, twenty four.
Speaker 1
Uh Are we
Albert
And Albert was twenty well, twenty nine, thirty years old.
Albert
It was just a decision of the right time and the cash be ready. But uh I mean from the first time I visited Albert and I went to Tonbridge Wells and Shibon, the little village where I used to work, I love the English country. As far as I'm concerned, I've been twenty years here and I just feel as happy as I am in France.
Presenter
Let's have another choice of recording you, Michel. What shall it be?
Albert
I've choose from um Les Cat Saison from Vivaldi. Why is that?
Albert
Vivaldi, a red priest from Venice, and uh Brado wanted to be a priest, I think. So, I mean it all works together. No, he used to be called a red priest as he had red hair.
Albert
Now, I used to when between the age of let's say twenty two to twenty six when I was having a little time off in the afternoon to lay down for half an hour and listening to the four season spring especially and letting my mind go away to my brother as I wanted the time to flow and to go very quickly for me to join him.
Presenter
Our castaways today are the restaurateurs Albert and Michel Rue. Gentlemen, we've arrived at this point now where it's about to take off for you in Britain with your first restaurant, the Gabroche.
Presenter
That's a sort of historical turning point in your life because here you sit today and you've got what, five restaurants you own, you've got a hotel, you've got an interest in other restaurants you're into.
Presenter
different kinds of food manufacturers. And you haven't truly revolutionized the way we think about food.
Presenter
in in this country. But what was your original notion all those years ago when you opened this first restaurant in London, Albert?
Albert
I think the idea behind it which in a way succeeded splendidly.
Albert
was to open a restaurant where it was not a restaurant, where it was more like a large private house.
Albert
where you took out of the restaurant all the pumps and the flambé and all the
Albert
The ceremonial were attached to the restaurant.
Albert
Which started back in the twenties.
Presenter
Mm.
Albert
Yeah.
Albert
a short menu. We done away with the large menu. Looking back, yes, first in Europe to do that, looking back at the first menu of Gavroche.
Presenter
Looking
Speaker 1
Yeah.
Albert
That was a revolution. There was about uh six data.
Albert
Five meat, uh three fish, and uh five sweet.
Albert
And um giving people joy in a sort of a relaxed atmosphere.
Presenter
You've talked the two of you about the way you love the country, but I mean wasn't it also of course a perfect place to to pitch your notions? Because our food here, generally speaking, was and is probably dreadful in the main. It can be look.
Albert
that that way, but I would look at it the other way, when there is no element of comparison of what you do it, when you're alone and you're damn good in the ocean. You know, I mean, who is going to know that you're good? It has been difficult for us. In fact, we're having a better time now
Albert
I'm saying now th there is more good restaurant now, uh more interest in cooking now amongst the young British chef, uh mainly, and uh uh the standard has risen a lot in this country.
Presenter
Well, I mean, and how much do you think you've contributed to that? How much because of your presence has that?
Albert
I mean, we have contributed by just um giving more a higher standard and and better food. That's what we wanted. We trained a lot of people which has been extremely good because they themselves start to retrain other people and expose other people to the kind of thought we feel in food.
Speaker 1
Uh
Presenter
Yeah.
Speaker 1
What a m
Speaker 1
Which has
Albert
And food is not a three star restaurant, that's where it uh it stop.
Albert
There's a three star toast, there's a three star fried egg.
Albert
I mean, food must be excellent at all level. I mean, there's a three-star salad.
Presenter
What is the three-star fried egg out there?
Albert
Deep fried egg, uh it takes about uh three and a half to four minutes to fry an egg.
Albert
And um there is a way of frying an egg. It's not a quick action frying of an egg.
Speaker 1
Uh
Albert
Three star exists in every food.
Albert
Yes, but back to the training now of the young people we've trained and some of them have started their own business. I mean we we've got over sixty percent British young people in our kitchen now which represent over sixty chefs, British chefs working for us. And we've got some now working two or three star Michelin in France, leading parties as well. And I think you know that would have been unthinkable ten or fifteen years ago.
Albert
Abba, you're
Presenter
Your next choice of record.
Albert
What?
Presenter
Uh
Albert
Silent Night
Albert
Why?
Speaker 2
God was great, that was all this day.
Speaker 2
Christ the Surah
Presenter
Gentlemen, you're acknowledged to be two of the world's leading chefs. What what do you need to be to be a great chef? I mean, what are the attributes that you must have?
Albert
I think you've got to have um a lot of uh stamina, uh you've got to have a lot of dedication, but you've got to be a good leader, you've got to be a father at the same time.
Albert
You've got to remember never to panic. And something goes wrong, and it always goes wrong. You know, when you think it goes right, then it goes wrong.
Albert
And you've got to lead your men, but they don't know you're leading them. They they work with you and they feel that you give them the best of yourself and you've got to give them the best of yourself.
Albert
It's a wonderful feeling of having a a crowd of young chef around you. It's wonderful. I love it.
Presenter
Are you?
Albert
No, probably I would agree totally with what uh Michel said, you know.
Presenter
You mentioned there, Michel, the the thing that and you did to Albert about looking for perfection all the time in what you do.
Presenter
W what would your idea be of the perfect meal? I mean, if you were given your last meal on earth, what would it be?
Presenter
Albert.
Albert
I'd like chips.
Albert
And I mean that with a three minute
Presenter
With a three-minute egg.
Albert
Uh well, I like an egg, yes, and uh the yolk uh nice and soft, so that I can dip my chips my chips nice and crispy.
Albert
So I can dip them into it. Chips and egg. Yes. Michelle. Well, I do like real food, you know, so we're back to the same thing. I mean, but I would go for a stew. I mean, I love stew and I would most probably
Presenter
Yes,
Albert
go for one of the dish which my mother used to cook for me, which can be a
Albert
An awful dish, you know. I mean, Ville Hart with carrots, uh, risotteaux, uh, blanquet de Vaux. I mean, I love blanquet devaux. You know, it always makes me laugh of people who said that Grand Cuisine is not blanquette de vaux. When my brother makes a blanquet devaux at Garboche, I love to know, as I think at Rista Michel cooking blanque de Vaux, not enough chef knows how to cook a blanche deaux, and I love those dishes. That's proper cooking.
Presenter
And when you go out, what is the kind of food that you really hate? What is the thing that upsets you most of all? Pretentious.
Albert
Pretentious food. You can judge the place by the menu and attitude of staff, so I always rely on smoked salmon.
Albert
and uh something extremely plain sauce uh not on top, but a separate sauce in the sauceboard, so I tip very timidly into it and more often than not I don't want any more. It's uh surprises me when I ask for more. Uh so usually I have a steak, plain steak.
Albert
One has to be very careful. I mean, there are places, you know, who are pretend to be and they certainly are not.
Presenter
Yeah.
Albert
Yeah. I think I I hate kiwi, I must tell you. Kiwi. Yes, I've kiwi fruit. Oh, I've seen them everywhere. And you know, even the shape, I can't even even cope with the shape now. That's a green eye from a horror movie, aren't they? You know, I've seen them on salad, on on on fruit dishes as a starter with a smoked salmon, with meat, with fish. I really think there must be an end of that. But apart from that, I think, you know, uh, what I hate really is cooking, which doesn't look like what I'm well, let's say that what I'm looking in my plate.
Presenter
Yeah.
Presenter
Horror movie out there.
Albert
It doesn't test what it looks like. And my God, you know, I mean, it does happen. But I just want the tests of what I'm looking at to be truthful.
Albert
Right, you have a next choice of record, Michelle. What shall it be? I love Jack Brayle, so I've chose uh Dulcinea, which is an extract from L'Homme de la Manga.
Albert
And I think it's one of the greatest singers and actors as he was acting as well in that uh play and uh I I will always remember that play. It's one of the greatest plays I've seen.
Speaker 1
Je save ja, je save ton parénon, ton aura, tour nicola, talumiè
Speaker 1
Je save toujour, Je save de toujour, que sejour n menore jus catonoir.
Speaker 1
Andora Sina.
Presenter
Gentlemen, on the publicity handout for the for the two the C V for the two of you, if you like, it says proud holders of the greatest number of Michelin stars in the world. I wonder how important it is, these guys, these food guys like Michelin, like Rone. I mean, are they really make or break for restaurateurs?
Albert
At the beginning of the life of a restaurant, there is no doubt that the press and people who write and the uh
Albert
guide book which uh even we I mean I certainly travel with guides and
Presenter
Mm.
Albert
consult them. So it certainly can make or break a place.
Albert
When you are established.
Albert
The only thing which guide you it's how many people you do every night and how much money you put in the bank in the morning.
Speaker 1
Yeah.
Albert
Well we have uh not uh with our establishment uh
Speaker 1
Uh
Albert
But we certainly have seen
Albert
Her establishment of repute savaged.
Albert
and the word savage can be used by guides.
Albert
And where uh they must have a few hundred uh imbeciles who go there every day for lunch and dinner. The place is still full as ever.
Presenter
Yeah.
Albert
And uh so there's a lot of idiot going around going to eat into those places. But there's no doubt that uh the beginning of a life of a restaurant, if you get a good report on a guide or a good write-up in a newspaper, it does help you a long, long way.
Presenter
In the restaurant business. I mean, is the customer always right?
Albert
The customer uh is not maybe always right, but if he raises his voice and even if he's wrong and if he raises voice nicely and a complaint justifier or the justifier will need an answer and must have an answer. And that's the way we deal. I think I've become much more diplomatic than I used to be, thanks to Bradley. As you've learned through life and I've learned that, you know, it's no good to lose your temper. Listen first, see what's happened, assess the problem and talk sensibly about it. And I think the customer must be right from time to time. And if he's right, you must tell him. If he's not, you must tell him too. But there is a way of telling. No, no, no, I think a customer provided
Speaker 1
There is a way of telling.
Presenter
Number 19.
Albert
That is polite. You ought to serve him. As soon as he comes into your establishment, you sit him down, you are there to provide him with joy and pleasure. Never mind how awkward it is. I personally at Le Gavorge haven't got enough awkward customer. I love him. Because if you satisfy him, think about all the rest. They are rolling on the floor with joy, of course.
Presenter
Albert, it's uh your choice of record.
Albert
Oh.
Albert
I've uh chosen non-general criteria, which mean uh regret nothing.
Albert
I wanted my brother to know that.
Albert
And who is singing that lovely song?
Speaker 1
Uh
Speaker 1
No, it's not a good idea.
Speaker 1
Niga beyond.
Speaker 1
Need a mile
Presenter
Bruh.
Speaker 1
Ria Doria No run away.
Presenter
Gentlemen, we talked about all your various business industries and one that we hadn't missed out was of course the publications, the cookbooks, um which have been incredibly successful. You've now brought a new one out, uh the Ru Brothers on on Petisserie. Do you in fact work together on these books? I mean, do you write together or what?
Albert
No, no, no, we don't. I'm not a writer and um if it was only for me there would be no book.
Albert
I um it's a very tedious uh job, takes a lot of time and um there'll be no books. Well like like anything we do, I mean the two brothers doing it together. What I mean is that you give me the affirmation which are some of the recipients which are in the book and I put mine together and I write. I mean
Speaker 1
Skill
Albert
I write when I travel, I write during the night of the winter, but I I love writing. It it was my best subject at school, writing. I mean that was without that the subject I love. And in fact I like to write more in the future. I mean I'm not going to become a writer suddenly, but I feel that it's a shame that a lot of books on cooking or on patistery comes out and are written by a third person. The chef is only producing his recipe. Our books represent not cooking or patiree, they represent more than that. They represent our ideas, our point of view, our life. And I just put it on paper.
Presenter
Let's have the final choice of record. Michelle is your choice.
Albert
I choose um Shadow of Fire Vangelis, which I love. I mean it's a theme of the of the of that lovely film which I've got on record in fact and uh I play that track uh from time to time, especially when I feel low and a bit tired.
Albert
You get so much out of it, it's a wonderful film, beautiful.
Presenter
Gentlemen, so now you're shipwrecked on this desert island and you have your your records. You have to imagine that uh
Presenter
Six are swept away, and you're left with one each. Albert, let me ask you which of your records would you want to retain?
Albert
Non-general gratorians.
Presenter
What about you, Michel? In the shy of far.
Presenter
Now let's ask you about your books. Albert, what about you? What what kind of book would you take on the island?
Albert
I would definitely take Escoffier.
Presenter
Would you? Yes. Yeah.
Albert
Why'd you say my God? Well, I want my cookery book too. Is that what you're taking? Yes, I'm taking Anton Kahim cookery book, which uh used to be a great master.
Presenter
Yeah.
Albert
and who will remain in the mind of everyone the great master, Laces Coffee.
Presenter
Right, and now we have the the luxury object. Now you have each other of course to talk to on this island, so you'll be much, much luckier than most castaways. But what would you take? What would be your luxury object?
Albert
As a luxury object, a luxury object can be anything one likes, one feels very precious.
Albert
So I will take another book. Another book. I will take another book.
Presenter
Yes.
Albert
And it's untitled How to Manage People.
Albert
Why? Why? Because you never know on an island there's two of us. I might not need it. But if someone comes along, I got a cookery book and I need a management book. So we could open something.
Presenter
I think you're in for a hard time, Michelle's doing.
Albert
Oh, well God, yeah. Well, I will take my small pieces of ivory which I've got at home. It's a beautiful carving. It took four years of the life of a Chinese man who I met and who I love and I think carving is a beautiful thing.
Albert
Gentlemen, thank you very much indeed.
Speaker 2
You've been listening to a podcast from the Desert Island Discs archive. For more podcasts, please visit bbc.co.uk slash radio four.
Why pastry work? Why was that?
I been lucky enough to be told by a wise old man to whom I confined that I wanted to be a chef. … Then he said before being a cook you have to learn how to do pastry. … Well, the pastry give you the balance, really. I mean, art as well. And you were without excess. I mean, there is some freedom in Patisfree and there is other things which to hold you back. And discipline is very important.
Presenter asks
When you first arrived at the age of eighteen from France, did you fall in love immediately with [England]?
Didn't take me long. I was very, very surprised when I stepped out from the train in Victoria Station. … My life uh started in England. There was no doubt in my mind that it was the country where I was going to come back. Nobody was going to move me out from that country. I fell in love with it and um I uh often said to one who want to hear it, I only travel with a French passport. I'm definitely I feel English and I'm very happy in this country.
Presenter asks
What was your original notion all those years ago when you opened this first restaurant [Le Gavroche] in London?
I think the idea behind it which in a way succeeded splendidly. was to open a restaurant where it was not a restaurant, where it was more like a large private house. where you took out of the restaurant all the pumps and the flambé and all the The ceremonial were attached to the restaurant. … a short menu. We done away with the large menu. … And um giving people joy in a sort of a relaxed atmosphere.
Presenter asks
What do you need to be to be a great chef?
I think you've got to have um a lot of uh stamina, uh you've got to have a lot of dedication, but you've got to be a good leader, you've got to be a father at the same time. You've got to remember never to panic. And something goes wrong, and it always goes wrong. … And you've got to lead your men, but they don't know you're leading them. They they work with you and they feel that you give them the best of yourself and you've got to give them the best of yourself.