Tuning in…
Tuning in…
Desert Island Discs
Presented by Kirsty Young
Fashion designer known for whimsical prints and as the muse in David Hockney's painting 'Mr and Mrs. Clark and Percy'.
Eight records
Well, when I was young I thought it was a wonderful record and it's got a real good beat and I think I'd be very happy on the Desert Island listening to it.
My father used to think of himself as a bit of an opera singer and he introduced me to classical music and Puccini makes me want to cry, so here we go.
I've always been quite a francophile and this music reminds me of lovely trips, all sorts of places in France, driving around the countryside.
How Sweet It Is (To Be Loved by You)
Marvin Gaye I listened to a lot in my youth and used to dance a lot to him, and I think it's a a very, very pretty record.
I love this record. I like the words and I love the tune. And I think it's a great song.
Sophie Daneman & Daniel Taylor
I love this because Andy, my partner, who's actually, as David says, quite a rock for me in life. And I'm going to play this because we went to Glenbourne and we took a picnic and we arrived and it was this sort of the rainiest day, the windiest day. And I remember sitting against a brick wall having this so-called picnic and then going into this opera house and listening to this divine music.
Tim Buckley singing Dolphins and it's not to everybody's taste, but it is to mine.
RêverieFavourite
I think this is the most delightful piece of music. I can't believe somebody could make such beauty and the fact he was twenty-eight when he made this piece of music is incredible.
The keepsakes
The book
Tropical Flowering Plants: A Guide to Identification and Cultivation
William S. Greer
Well, I'd like to take a a book that uh would give me information about growing tropical flowers because obviously I would think I'd be on a tropical island, so my choice would be tropical flowering plants. Yeah, Compendium.
The luxury
I think if I was alone on a desert island and um in the middle of nowhere surrounded by lovely things I would like to sleep properly and I think if I slept properly I could face whatever I had to and um I think a luxurious bed would be a dream.
In conversation
Presenter asks
When you see some lovely young thing swanning down the street in one of your current creations, do you still get a thrill?
Yes. It's lovely to meet. I I think um the older you get, youth looks more and more delectable and you think, gosh, I was there once but when you're young you never appreciate it the same way.
Presenter asks
What is it do you think that has made [your vintage designs with Ossie Clark] such design classics, and such collectibles?
I think he he could make whether you were small, fat, thin, or whatever, look. You're most attractive, and they had a sort of spiritual feel about them that I don't think any other designer has managed to create since. We all felt very, very lovely in his clothes.
The recording
Timestamps play the recording from that turn
Presenter
Hello, I'm Kirsty Young. Thank you for downloading this podcast of Desert Island Discs from BBC Radio 4. For rights reasons, the music choices are shorter than in the radio broadcast.
Presenter
For more information about the programme, please visit bbc.co.uk/slash radio four.
Presenter
My castaway this week is the designer Celia Burtwell. In the ephemeral world of fashion she has endured. Marianne Faithful wore her creations in the sixties, Kate Moss is a fan to day. Whimsical prints and flattering forms are her signature style. And although her vintage designs are highly collectible, her new ranges fly off the high street rails too.
Presenter
Never one of the fashion world's flamboyant self promoters, she has, none the less a face known to millions. As a long time friend and muse to David Hockney, she is the woman at the centre of his famous painting, Mr and Mrs. Clark and Percy.
Presenter
She wants her work to be relevant, because, she says, There's nothing worse than being outdated. If that happens, and I feel I'm past it, I'll stop. Well, you're clearly far from past it, Celia. And these days you're commissioned by everyone from Top Shop
Presenter
for clothes to clarages for interiors and you've been at it a good long time. But when you see some lovely young thing swanning down the street in one of your current creations, do you still get a thrill?
Celia Birtwell
Yes. It's lovely to meet. I I think um the older you get, youth looks more and more delectable and you think, gosh, I was there once but when you're young you never appreciate it the same way.
Presenter
I'm imagining when you started out you were full of sort of blind enthusiasm and optimism. Is that harder and harder to hold on to as you deal with the big corporate beasts of the jungle these days?
Celia Birtwell
I think it's completely different now. When I was young, everybody was trying something out sort of quite new, but then suddenly young and beautiful became
Celia Birtwell
quite apparent in in the boutique sense of the word. It was not big business. And now I watch it it's rather cutthroat compared to what it was like when I was young. I don't think we quite knew what we were doing. It was just experimental and fun. Yeah.
Presenter
There's big business still in those beautiful vintage dresses that you made with your then husband, Ozzie Clark, and they sell for pretty big bucks. What is it do you think that has made them such design classics, and such collectibles?
Celia Birtwell
I think he he could make whether you were small, fat, thin, or whatever, look.
Celia Birtwell
You're most attractive, and they had a sort of spiritual feel about them that I don't think any other designer has managed to create since.
Celia Birtwell
We all felt very, very lovely in his clothes.
Presenter
And so, of course, it they were his designs, the sort of pattern cutting was his, but the prints upon them were yours. It was, if you like, one of those beautiful meetings of creative minds where the sum of its parts was much more than the individuals, do you think?
Celia Birtwell
Well, I like to think that's true.
Celia Birtwell
I do think that's true to a degree, because I think his work was very hard edged. He had a very strong architectural knowledge of form, and I think I haven't got any of that. I'm two dimensional and I see things in textiles. So I think my
Celia Birtwell
Treatment alongside him gave it a softness that it wouldn't have achieved otherwise.
Presenter
Time for some music, then, Celia Bertwell. What are we going to hear first off this morning?
Celia Birtwell
The first record is Under the Boardwalk by the Drifters.
Presenter
And tell me why you've chosen this.
Celia Birtwell
Well, when I was young I thought it was a wonderful record and it's got a real good beat and I think I'd be very happy on the Desert Island listening to it.
Speaker 4
Or when the sun goes down and burns the tar up on the roof.
Speaker 4
And your shoes get so hot, you wish your tired feet were fireproof.
Speaker 4
Some bad for
Speaker 4
Down by the sea, yeah.
Speaker 4
On a branches with my baby
Presenter
There's where I'll be.
Presenter
That was under the boardwalk by the drifters. So, Celia, for very many years now you've been, I suppose, a sort of backroom grafter in the design industry. And as I said in the introduction, people might not know your face, because you're not a self-promoter, if it were not for the fact that your face has been painted and drawn and crayoned on many, many occasions by David Hockney, your very good friend. That first picture that we all became aware of, Mr. and Mrs. Clarke and Percy, what it when was it painted?
Presenter
Yeah.
Celia Birtwell
uh nineteen seventy one. David was doing a series of portraits of his friends, and he said
Celia Birtwell
I'll come and take some photographs of you. I'd like to do a double portrait.
Celia Birtwell
So at first my memories were of me wearing some kaftan, because I'd just been to Morocco and uh
Celia Birtwell
And then of course I wore the black dress with the red movement round the sleeves and the tie bow.
Presenter
Uh
Speaker 4
Yeah.
Celia Birtwell
And um I still have that dress, much to my amazement. Of course I can't get into it any more, but we never thought it would become so heroic. I mean nobody ever thought that that would be like the number one postcard sold at the Tate.
Presenter
And you used the word heroic there. That's interesting because a lot of uh critics say that one of the fascinating things about it is it's sort of a reversal of the normal classical pose where the wife sits and the man is standing. You are standing, looking in command, and there's Aussie, your husband, sort of slightly kind of slouched and a bit out of it, yes.
Celia Birtwell
So it's in the map.
Celia Birtwell
Thank you a step
Celia Birtwell
A bit out of it. A bit out of it, yes. I don't know whether that's true. I I think that was in David's head at the time. I think he saw us as in in this position. And also the painting of the cat. Blanche was my favorite little cat, and indeed Blanche is in the painting.
Celia Birtwell
But Percy was her son.
Celia Birtwell
So David thought the sound of mister and misses Clark and Percy had a better ring than Blanche. But I know it was blonde.
Presenter
Ah, sh
Celia Birtwell
Uh
Presenter
And, as I say, David Horkney has painted you on many, many occasions. I'm intrigued as to the as to the relationship between a painter and the sitter. Is that an odd sense?
Celia Birtwell
Well, I mean, it was very unexpected. I never thought of myself as a muse or a model. I thought of myself as a doer and a creator. My life's been full of surprises, actually, and I think fate's played such a
Celia Birtwell
a particular role in it. I met David in about nineteen sixty nine and our families were rather similar. My father was rather eccentric, his was too and we found that we liked each other rather a lot and uh he always says I've got a good eye, which I'm very flattered by.
Celia Birtwell
And um I think that's my best quality actually.
Presenter
Uh
Celia Birtwell
Yeah.
Presenter
Yeah. Music
Celia Birtwell
Yeah.
Presenter
Then Celia, what are we gonna hear? Your second piece.
Celia Birtwell
We're going to play O My Beloved Father by Puccini, sung by Maria Callas. My father used to think of himself as a bit of an opera singer and he introduced me to classical music and Puccini makes me want to cry, so here we go.
Speaker 4
Heal my fear of all
Speaker 4
Yeah.
Speaker 4
Fairly.
Speaker 4
The Cole of Lisa.
Speaker 4
A sweet man
Speaker 4
Where both are belong.
Presenter
Maria Callas singing Omio Babino Caro from Puccini's opera Jani Skiki. So is it true, Celia Bertwell, that you're no good with a needle and thread?
Presenter
Absolutely hopeless.
Celia Birtwell
I was talking to my sister yesterday about it, and I said the hours that my mother used to sit at the machine making as endless clothes I could embroider a little bit, but
Celia Birtwell
It's quite funny because I love fashion and I love everything about it. I like painting my prints and um I've got endless patience for doing my own work, but sewing leaves me cold.
Presenter
And so your mother at one time, before she was a busy mother of three daughters, she worked as a seamstress. Wh where does she work?
Celia Birtwell
A seamstress
Celia Birtwell
She worked in Manchester and uh she made satin wedding dresses actually. She was very skilled, and also she had an interaction with Ozzie for a time because he would come with his homework and she loved to teach people how to make clothes.
Presenter
David Hockney, that you had similar backgrounds in that your fathers were both rather eccentric. So tell me more about your rather eccentric father.
Celia Birtwell
Rather eccentric.
Celia Birtwell
I always admired my father. He was a very, very nice man. He used to come home in the evening and look at his garden.
Celia Birtwell
loved his books, loved his daughters to go to bed at night before he could sit up and read into the early hours of the morning. So in the background was this rather noble man,
Celia Birtwell
And my mother was completely the opposite. She was a very practical person. She would do the decorating and
Celia Birtwell
the sorting out of putting shelves up even, because he wasn't actually very practical in that way.
Presenter
So you were the eldest of three daughters. What what are your early memories? Were were you a close bunch?
Celia Birtwell
Well, there were five years' difference between the three of us. So we were quite far apart. Um my memories were of being brought up in Prestwich, which is uh North Manchester.
Celia Birtwell
I like that part of the world very much now, and I think the countryside there is absolutely beautiful. So my early memories of orchards and pigsties and swallows in nests
Presenter
Quite strong. So when you were thirteen then, the look would have that was the mid-fifties, the look would have been the sort. Well, it was the new look, wasn't it? It was the long pencil skirts, the peplum jackets, the gloves. How did you look?
Celia Birtwell
Well, I always remember looking a bit of a joke because I think I had white short socks on and little Cuban heeled shoes. So it must have looked, but I always thought I was rather stylish. There is one famous story about my father, who uh I think I was probably sixteen and
Presenter
Sounds rather delightful.
Celia Birtwell
Probably thinking I looked a bit like British Bardeau, Joke Joke.
Celia Birtwell
And um my mother making me this denim dress with little frills down the front. And I think he was so embarrassed he had to walk behind me in the street. Let's have some music. Your third disc. Uh my third disc is La Mer uh by Charles Trennay. I've always been quite a francophile and this music reminds me of lovely trips, all sorts of places in France, driving around the countryside.
Speaker 3
La May
Speaker 3
Convadencé.
Speaker 3
Leon, he goes little egg.
Speaker 3
Adirofflet, Davoson.
Speaker 3
Love babe.
Speaker 3
They were filled.
Speaker 3
God bless
Speaker 3
La May.
Presenter
La Mer by Charles Renay. So, then, Celia, you were at technical college, as we know, in Salford, when you were thirteen, fourteen. You were studying textiles and pottery. What did you think? Did you even think about the future, if you thought about what it held?
Celia Birtwell
No, I don't think I did. I just was having such a lovely time. I had to decide there one of my slight worries was you had to decide whether you were going to do uh illustration, textiles, pottery or fine art. There was no fashion course at the time. So I did um
Celia Birtwell
I d I did a bit of everything for a while.
Celia Birtwell
We used to make our own screens and do dreadful printing and make great big messes everywhere, but somehow textiles seemed to be the thing for me.
Presenter
And it was your good fortune, I suppose, to be a teenager at the point in British society when teenagers actually started to exist. I mean, up until then they'd just been children who were adults in waiting. Were you aware of that as something that was interesting and something that was a a difference between you and your parents?
Celia Birtwell
Ting
Celia Birtwell
I don't know, but I do remember um my father getting the observer one Sunday morning and seeing a dress by Mary Quant and it was a sack dress with pleats round the bottom and it was made out of ticking. And I'd also at the same time my mother had made me something similar and I thought this is a bohemian look, this is the way to look. So um I remember feeling at last a teenager had a place.
Presenter
Sixteen, when you met Ozzie Clark for the first time. Tell me about that.
Celia Birtwell
Well, I thought he was quite amazing. He had a beetle hair cut before any beetles came along.
Celia Birtwell
He had a jerkin which had a leather front.
Celia Birtwell
with a V neck and a little rounded collared shirt and
Presenter
Winkle pickers. Um you once said on your collaboration with him that uh you said of Ozzie, I think my sketches were a fantasy that he brought to life.
Speaker 4
Boom.
Presenter
That must have been quite something, to find somebody who could not only interpret but enhance what it was you were doing creatively.
Speaker 4
Yeah.
Celia Birtwell
Was you a
Celia Birtwell
Well, I think I added a go day in every drawing I ever did, and so he liked go days quite a lot. We never really talked about our work together. He would look at my drawings, I would look at his. But we didn't have conversations. We had conversations about things that he'd bring to the home, like he'd buy a beautiful vase,
Celia Birtwell
find a bit of Lalique pottery that he knew I'd like, so we shared other kinds of interests, more really for the home.
Celia Birtwell
I would find clothes, of course, on Port Bella Road, and we then called them
Celia Birtwell
Secondhand clothes, which have now, of course, become vintage, which is a very different calibre, I think, to have a lot of stuff.
Presenter
And the next one's zero.
Celia Birtwell
On the price
Presenter
I must
Celia Birtwell
Almost exactly.
Presenter
I must just ask you, you said Godi and I'm going to reveal my ignorance. What is that?
Celia Birtwell
A go day is when you put a panel in the in the you insert that which gives fullness to the garment. So those are go days. And I was always drawing these go days. Let's have some more music, Celia. What's next? Well, how sweet it is to be loved by you by dear old Marvin Gay.
Presenter
Okay from E
Celia Birtwell
Um Marvin Gaye I listened to a lot in my youth and used to dance a lot to him, and I think it's a a very, very pretty record.
Speaker 4
I wanna stop and thank you, thank you I wanna stop and thank you for now How sweet is to be lost by you
Speaker 4
How sweet it is to be my size.
Speaker 4
Yeah, sure.
Speaker 4
Close my eyes at night
Presenter
How Sweet It Is by Marvin Gaye, recalling for you, Celia, your early dancing days in London. You moved to London then in round about nineteen sixty one, I think it was. Yes. I'm imagining that you and Ozzie Clark must have been a particularly beautiful couple. There he was with his on-trend haircut and his wonderful bomber jackets, and there you were looking as beautiful as you did look with your ringlets and your Botticellian face. And did did people st stop and stare as you swaggered through the streets of London?
Celia Birtwell
Well, I think I always worked to make myself look as attractive as possible, but I didn't really see myself as a botticelli girl.
Celia Birtwell
You know, I was always looking at models that Dulcie would work with, who I was always looking at thinking how beautiful they were.
Celia Birtwell
So I always thought he was very attractive, and he had wonderful sort of wide shoulders and slim hips, and um clothes looked wonderful on him.
Celia Birtwell
But, um when I look back, of course, I think, well, you weren't bad.
Presenter
Yeah.
Celia Birtwell
Yeah.
Presenter
And what about your working relationship then? W did it actually have a formal beginning or did it just evolve out of your relationship with each other?
Celia Birtwell
He first started with a girl called Alice Pollack, who invited him to do a collection for Quorum, and at first he started work making clothes in plain fabrics.
Celia Birtwell
And then I think it evolved through Alice Pollack encouraging me, saying, I think we could use some of your prints, which of course I was delighted to do, and
Celia Birtwell
First of all I did one print and tried to cram absolutely every feeling I'd got in the world in this one print. And then she said, Well, I think next time we could do a few, and maybe you could add, you know, some accessories, maybe you could do some scarves.
Celia Birtwell
And I was in my elements then. I love doing it.
Presenter
And your designs were worn by, well, anybody who was anybody in London at the time, Marianne Faithful, Bianca Jagger.
Celia Birtwell
Anybody
Presenter
Twiggy, The Rolling Stones, Paloma Picasso, Jimi Hendricks, he wore some of did he wear some of your shirts this time?
Celia Birtwell
Yes, I think he did. He was big time, wasn't he? He was important.
Presenter
He really paused.
Celia Birtwell
But Ozzy thought he was just the greatest.
Celia Birtwell
And every night we'd have to listen to Jimi Hendrix. Hence, I haven't chosen any of his records, but I did think.
Presenter
I think he was great. And these famous and very beautiful and very prominent women who wore your designs. I mean, that must have been a a fantasy almost come to life to see the most fashionable people of the day.
Celia Birtwell
Well, I think the fashion shows Ozzie created were the first ever to have music and wonderful girls simultaneously performing like a theatrical experience. And I think for me I used to get the sort of shivers down the spine that one does when you're seeing something that's pretty good.
Celia Birtwell
It was very on trend to be at an Ozzy Clark show. Some more music then, Celia. We've got uh your fifth choice. Tell me about that. The fifth choice is uh Sacrifice by Elton John. I love this record. I like the words and I love the tune. And I think it's a great song. Sweet as it comes, come.
Speaker 4
Hallelujah
Speaker 4
Negative July
Speaker 4
Coco
Speaker 4
But done by you
Speaker 4
Some things look better, baby.
Speaker 4
Just pass and through.
Presenter
And it's not a sacrifice.
Presenter
Sacrifice by Alphonse John. And you said, Celia Burtwell going into that, that you just like the words. And it's interesting because the words are bittersweet in that song. I was listening there to the just passing through bit. I w I wonder listening to you talk about the sixties and, you know, Ozzy playing the Jimi Hendrix in the other room at two in the morning and all of that stuff, if it's rather more fun to read about it and look at the photographs than it actually was to be living it at the time.
Celia Birtwell
I was listening.
Celia Birtwell
Yeah.
Celia Birtwell
People are always asking you about your past or about your youth because it was so such an important time really in say in fashion and in England.
Celia Birtwell
But I think things can be more pleasurable now to look back on than they were at the time. I think that's very absolutely true.
Presenter
When Ozzie had two children together, Albert in'sixty nine and George in'seventy one, how did you manage to combine having two small children with this burgeoning fashion label and being at the centre of fashionable society?'Cause that's a a bit of an awkward mix, I would think.
Celia Birtwell
Well, I've always been a home's body. I've always been the ho one at home. I like my home. I like living. I d I'm
Celia Birtwell
He would always party and I was often at home. But gradually as the relationship unfolded it became more more and more impossible to sort of stay together. He'd sort lost the marvellous thing that I loved about him, I guess, and had become very, very sort of almost self destructive.
Celia Birtwell
In a way I think he'd have been happier as a rock star, because they could work hard.
Celia Birtwell
and then go and party.
Celia Birtwell
And uh you can't do that in the fashion world. You finish one collection and you have to start the next.
Presenter
Next.
Celia Birtwell
I always knew he was
Presenter
Bye.
Celia Birtwell
bisexual. Yes, oh yes. I don't think he really wanted to be homosexual.
Presenter
Yeah.
Celia Birtwell
Um I think it was something that um you had to hide.
Celia Birtwell
Os it was illegal then.
Celia Birtwell
But we made this relationship, which was out of the blue. It wasn't meant to be a love affair, but, you know, stranger things have happened. Indeed.
Presenter
In nineteen seventy four your marriage broke down properly, and there you were the mother of two young boys, and the the rent has to be paid, and if if dad's off behaving like a rock star, if not earning like one, then money must have been a worry, was it?
Celia Birtwell
Yeah, you were the m
Celia Birtwell
Yeah.
Celia Birtwell
Then if
Celia Birtwell
Well, I did collections of prints for a couple of years.
Celia Birtwell
I managed. I used to do a bit of teaching and I did endless things, but I was very disappointed when I lost my job with the company that Ozzie had been employed with. Why did you lose your job? Because I actually started to do some clothes for them. And because I had young children, I couldn't go to Germany and Europe to sort of promote them. And I did some teaching, I did some graphic designs. I suppose it was quite a struggling time.
Presenter
It must have been heartbreaking for you to see Ozzy spiral creatively, because of course he couldn't keep hold of the reins.
Celia Birtwell
Yeah, because of
Celia Birtwell
No.
Presenter
No.
Celia Birtwell
No, no.
Celia Birtwell
And then he made a bit of a comeback in the eighties, but I'd really quite fallen out with him by then because I thought he was
Celia Birtwell
not doing himself any favours.
Celia Birtwell
Let's have some money.
Presenter
Yeah.
Celia Birtwell
Yes, we're going to play Embrace You by Handel. I love this because Andy, my partner, who's actually, as David says, quite a rock for me in life. And I'm going to play this because we went to Glenbourne and we took a picnic and we arrived and it was this sort of the rainiest day, the windiest day. And I remember sitting against a brick wall having this so-called picnic and then going into this opera house and listening to this divine music.
Speaker 4
Brought a blockchain.
Speaker 4
I'm not sure if I can do it.
Speaker 4
Uh
Speaker 4
There's nothing in my name on him.
Speaker 4
You leave one.
Speaker 4
I thought it was
Speaker 4
Restore deal.
Presenter
Io Tabraccio, I Embrace You from Handel's opera Rodolanda, sung there by Sophie Daneman and Daniel Taylor with the Raglan Baroque players. You said there that you had chosen that piece of music because it reminds you of the man who's been you said your rock, Andy Palmer, since the late eighties. I I wonder if that was quite a nice
Presenter
Role reversal for you is somebody who'd had to be the rock to then have somebody else to rely on.
Celia Birtwell
Well, when I first met Andy, um
Celia Birtwell
It was a very strange affair because I was just buying a house. He was helping to renovate the house. And he was going to renovate the house. Well, in fact, he just came to do the damp course. And he stayed. They stayed. And um
Presenter
And he was given
Presenter
And he stayed.
Celia Birtwell
He loves nature in a more intelligent way than I do, because he'll notice a sort of ant crawling out of somewhere which I probably would just dismiss.
Celia Birtwell
But, um, it was very nice to have somebody who looked after me. I didn't see it like that, actually. I haven't seen it like that, but it's true.
Presenter
So Celia, your career as a designer then, as we know, had flourished with this partnership that you had with Ozzie Clark. Much later he died in very tragic circumstances in the middle of the nineties. But following your divorce, back in nineteen seventy four, you went from
Presenter
Designing your fabrics at home to then opening this eponymous shop in the mid eighties in as it is now trendy Notting Hill. What about running your own business? You have to be really a very practical person to do that well.
Celia Birtwell
Well, as my landlady still says to me when I started and when she was introduced to me, she said, um
Celia Birtwell
I think she'll last five minutes.
Celia Birtwell
We always laugh about it actually because I did have the shop for twenty five years. It's like a big part of my life. The nice thing about the home is that you can do a design. I did a design in nineteen eighty four when I first opened the shop called Little Animals.
Celia Birtwell
And it's never gone out of style. And I've moved, I've called it Beasties, called it Animal Solo.
Celia Birtwell
And the design just goes on. Now in fashion it could never happen. It's new, new, new, new. So my home fabrics I'm qu rather proud of some of them. The home is a different animal altogether than fashion.
Celia Birtwell
Yeah.
Presenter
I was reading in the cuttings that when you did your designs for Top Shop, which was in two thousand six, I think they were the fastest ever selling collection, outselling Kate Moss for Top Shop and all those other uh fancy designers that they they get in there. Did did that take you by surprise?
Celia Birtwell
I think they won't.
Celia Birtwell
Yeah.
Celia Birtwell
Yes, because I thought I don't know how people are going to react to these, because you don't. I did get
Celia Birtwell
An inkling that they might be okay, because I'd been to Top Shop in Oxford Street, and I'd seen the collection on on a rail.
Celia Birtwell
And I thought these aren't bad, and I got quite a buzz from them.
Celia Birtwell
Let's have some more music then, Celia. What are we going to hear? Now we're going to have um Tim Buckley singing Dolphins and it's not to everybody's taste, but it is to mine.
Speaker 4
But Lord, I'm not the one to tell.
Speaker 4
This old world, how to get along
Speaker 4
I only know that peace will come.
Speaker 4
When all our haters gone
Speaker 4
I've been a search engine for the W
Presenter
That was Dolphins by Tim Buckley. In a way it seems, Celia Burtwell, as if your career, your creative career has done a full circle. Because when you started out, you did design fabrics and things for heels, and then you went on to do all the beautiful clothes we know about. And now you've been back doing fabrics for the last couple of decades. And now things like tents and watering cans, those sort of quite practical things. Are you surprised at where it's led you this career?
Celia Birtwell
I am.
Celia Birtwell
I am, actually. I know. These things pop up and I've I've had quite a few failures as well, like everybody. I suppose one doesn't know about the things you're not terribly proud of that haven't taken off or been successful.
Presenter
What about your own interiors? I'm thinking now to the island. Would you you'd want to create beauty, I imagine.
Celia Birtwell
Oh, I'd love to make the island um but it'd have to look right, wouldn't it? What what would right be?
Presenter
Would write
Celia Birtwell
Oh, I can't tell you that until I saw the island. Oh. It can't bear things if they don't.
Presenter
Yeah.
Celia Birtwell
Look right. I'm a bit bossy about things like that.
Presenter
And would I find when I know you say you're renovating a house just now, but once all the renovation's done, would I find a lovely Hockney above the mantelpiece?
Celia Birtwell
Easy.
Celia Birtwell
Uh
Presenter
Would I?
Celia Birtwell
Yes, you would. I know I'm very proud of my hot knees. I'm very proud of those.
Presenter
Yeah.
Presenter
So David won't be on the island, Andy won't be on the island. You will make it look beautiful, but will you survive without them? Will you be optimistic and buoyant?
Celia Birtwell
Oh.
Celia Birtwell
I think I'll be pretty lonely. I won't have anybody to chatter to, will I?
Presenter
Uh
Speaker 4
Uh
Celia Birtwell
Um I can make it look very nice, and I would embrace it as much as I could. I'd like to find the wildlife. I don't think I'm terribly good on my own for too long.
Presenter
And without the curling tongs for your hair, you do love to curl your hair. I do.
Celia Birtwell
I do.
Presenter
Yeah.
Celia Birtwell
Well, no one would see me, would they? So there is an upside, yes.
Presenter
Let's have your final piece of music then, Celia Bertal. What are we going to hear?
Celia Birtwell
We're going to hear Reverie by Debussy. I think this is the most delightful piece of music. I can't believe somebody
Celia Birtwell
could make such beauty and the fact he was twenty-eight when he made this piece of music is incredible.
Presenter
That was Reverie by Claude Debussy, played there by Monique Haas. So we come to the point, Celia, where I'm going to give you some stuff. First of all, the books, you get the Bible and the complete works of Shakespeare, and what will you take along with that?
Celia Birtwell
Well, I'd like to take a a book that uh would give me information about growing tropical flowers because obviously I
Presenter
Yeah.
Celia Birtwell
would think I'd be on a tropical island, so my choice would be tropical flowering plants. Yeah, Compendium. And
Presenter
Uh
Celia Birtwell
Uh
Presenter
Uh
Celia Birtwell
Uh
Presenter
Um uh
Celia Birtwell
And not Luxury too, what love?
Presenter
What luxury would you like?
Celia Birtwell
Well, I think if I was alone on a desert island and um in the middle of nowhere surrounded by lovely things I would like to sleep properly and I think if I slept properly I could face whatever I had to and um I think a luxurious bed would be a dream. Would you like a four poster? Doesn't need to have a canopy? That would be a good idea. I hadn't thought of that. Yes, that would be very nice. I'd feel a bit more secluded and
Presenter
Um
Presenter
Yeah. We sleep better. I shall give you that. And if you had to choose just one of the eight discs from your list today, which one would it be?
Celia Birtwell
Well, I think the most beautiful piece of music I've played would be Reverie by Claude de Bussy. I could listen to that.
Presenter
Endlessly. Right, you may have that. Celia Bertwell, thank you very much for letting us hear your desert island discs. My pleasure.
Presenter
You've been listening to a download from the BBC. You'll find more information on the Radio 4 website: bbc.co.uk slash Radio4.
Presenter asks
That first picture that we all became aware of, Mr. and Mrs. Clark and Percy, when was it painted?
nineteen seventy one. David was doing a series of portraits of his friends, and he said I'll come and take some photographs of you. I'd like to do a double portrait. … we never thought it would become so heroic. I mean nobody ever thought that that would be like the number one postcard sold at the Tate.
Presenter asks
Is it true, Celia Birtwell, that you're no good with a needle and thread?
Absolutely hopeless. … It's quite funny because I love fashion and I love everything about it. I like painting my prints and um I've got endless patience for doing my own work, but sewing leaves me cold.
Presenter asks
How did you manage to combine having two small children with this burgeoning fashion label and being at the centre of fashionable society?
Well, I've always been a home's body. I've always been the ho one at home. I like my home. … He would always party and I was often at home. But gradually as the relationship unfolded it became more more and more impossible to sort of stay together. He'd sort lost the marvellous thing that I loved about him, I guess, and had become very, very sort of almost self destructive.
“I think his work was very hard edged. He had a very strong architectural knowledge of form, and I think I haven't got any of that. I'm two dimensional and I see things in textiles. So I think my treatment alongside him gave it a softness that it wouldn't have achieved otherwise.”
“I never thought of myself as a muse or a model. I thought of myself as a doer and a creator. My life's been full of surprises, actually, and I think fate's played such a a particular role in it.”
“I think things can be more pleasurable now to look back on than they were at the time. I think that's very absolutely true.”